Battery-Powered Actuator
Your Gladiator hoop raises and lowers at the press of a button. This guide covers mounting, wiring, charging and testing the system — start to finish, in about an hour.
Before You Start
This system replaces hand-crank height adjustment with a battery-powered actuator you drive from a wireless remote. There are only three things to mount on the wall — the battery base, the wireless control box and the remote holder — then two cables to connect.
Tools you'll need (not included)
- Drill / driver with a #2 Phillips bit
- Drill bit sized for the supplied anchors — check the anchor packaging for the correct size
- Stud finder
- Level (a two-foot level is ideal)
- Tape measure and a pencil
- Phillips screwdriver for final tightening
Get set up
- Unpack everything and check it against What's in the box
- Charge the battery fully before first use
- Find and mark your wall studs
- Clear the floor under the hoop and keep kids and pets out of the area
- Keep the two battery keys where you'll find them again
Safety — please read
- Pinch hazard. The actuator moves with real force. Keep hands, fingers and bystanders clear of the actuator, the hoop arms and all moving parts any time the system has power.
- Switch off before wiring. Set the battery power switch to O (off) before connecting or disconnecting any cable.
- Mind the polarity. Red is positive (+), black is negative (−). Reversing the discharge cables can damage the control box and is not covered by warranty.
- Use only the supplied charger. Maximum charging current is 3 amps. Charge indoors, on a hard, non-flammable surface.
- Keep it dry. The battery, charger and control box are not waterproof. Never spray or hose them down.
- Don't modify anything. Do not cut, splice or extend the supplied cables, and do not open the battery housing.
- Never work under a raised hoop. Lower it fully and switch the battery off before servicing anything, and store the remote out of reach of young children.
What's In The Box
Lay everything out and account for each item before you begin. If something is missing or arrived damaged, stop and contact us — don't start the install with an incomplete kit.
Main actuator battery ×1
Rechargeable pack that powers the whole system. Ships locked onto its wall base.
Battery base ×1
Wall-mounted base that the battery slides onto and locks into.
Locking keys ×2
Unlock the battery from its base. Attached to the base at delivery.
Wireless control box ×1
Receives the remote signal and drives the actuator.
Mounting plate 2 pc
Interlocking bracket for the control box. One half is pre-installed on the box.
Actuator remote ×1
Wireless UP / STOP / DOWN control.
Remote wall holder ×1
Gives the remote a permanent home so it never goes missing.
Remote battery ×1
Size A23. Replacements are sold at most hardware and drug stores.
Battery charger ×1
3 A max. Red LED = charging, green LED = charged.
Screws & anchors set
Mounting screws with drywall anchors, for sheetrock over wood studs only.
Actuator & padding ×1
The drive unit with removable protective padding. Usually shipped fitted to the hoop.
Discharge cables fitted
Carry power from the battery base to the control box. Red (+) / black (−).
Know Your System
Five minutes here will save you time on the wall. These are the controls and connections you'll use during installation and every day afterwards.
- Battery lock. Secures the battery to its wall base. Turn with either supplied key to lock or release. Always lock the battery after installing it, then remove the key and store it somewhere you'll remember — leaving the key in the lock defeats the purpose.
- Charge socket & power switch. The socket accepts the supplied charger only — maximum charging current 3 amps. The switch beside it powers the entire system: — is on, O is off.
- Discharge socket & cables. Carry power from the battery base to the wireless control box. Red is positive (+), black is negative (−) — match by colour, not by connector shape, as the connector style varies between production runs. Spare cable can be tucked inside the control box housing.
- Actuator & overhang positions. The drive unit that raises and lowers the hoop, wrapped in removable protective padding. The upper bracket has two mounting positions — 18" overhang and 36" overhang. On most systems this is already set at the factory. If you're unsure which applies to your hoop, contact us before moving the pin.
Battery level indicator
Press the button beside the lights to read the remaining charge. The lights turn themselves off after a moment.
How it all connects
Discharge cables (red + / black −) run from the battery to the control box; the actuator cable runs from the control box to the hoop with a little slack. The remote talks to the control box wirelessly — press a button, the control box wakes the actuator, the hoop moves.
Ten Steps, In Order
Don't skip ahead — the wiring steps assume the battery is off and off the wall.
Plan your layout
Pick the wall positions for all three mounted parts before you drill a single hole. Hold each part up to the wall and check the following:
- The control box sits within easy reach of the actuator cable — the cable should reach with a little slack, never stretched tight.
- The battery base sits within reach of the control box for the discharge cables, and close enough to a power outlet that the charger cord reaches comfortably.
- The battery is high enough to stay clear of balls, carts and foot traffic, but low enough that you can read the level lights and plug in the charger without a ladder.
- Nothing is mounted where the hoop, backboard or actuator will swing through it across the full range of travel.
- Cables can run along the wall out of the play area, with no sharp bends or pinch points.
Mark the screw holes lightly in pencil, check them with your level, then step back and look at all three positions together before you drill.
Unlock and remove the battery base
Your battery ships with its wall base already attached so the two travel safely together. Separate them now:
- Insert one of the supplied keys into the battery lock.
- Turn the key to the unlocked position.
- Slide the battery off the base and set it somewhere safe and dry — you'll put it back on in Step 8.
- Keep both keys together. You'll need one every time you take the battery off the wall.
Mount the battery base
- Hold the base flat against the wall on your marked spot, with the open end positioned so the battery slides down onto it.
- Set your level against the base and adjust until it is truly plumb. Mark the screw holes.
- Drill the pilot holes. If you hit a stud, drive the screw straight in — no anchor needed. Otherwise tap a supplied drywall anchor in until it sits flush with the wall.
- Drive the supplied screws through the base. Snug them down firmly, but stop as soon as the base is tight — overtightening strips drywall anchors.
- Re-check plumb, then grip the base and try to rock it. It should not move at all.
Mount the control box bracket
The wireless control box hangs on a two-piece interlocking bracket. One half is already fastened to the back of the control box; the other half goes on the wall.
- Hold the wall half against the wall with the mounting holes along the bottom edge. This orientation matters — mounted upside down, the two halves will not interlock.
- Level it carefully. Any tilt here shows up directly in how the control box sits, and it will be the first thing you notice every time you walk past.
- Mark the holes, drill, and set anchors where there's no stud behind you.
- Drive the supplied screws and confirm the bracket is level one last time.
Hang the control box
- Lift the control box and line its bracket half up above the wall half.
- Lower it so the two interlock, then let it slide down until it seats fully.
- Give it a gentle upward tug and a light side-to-side wiggle. It should feel locked in, not loose or rocking.
Connect the actuator
- Confirm the battery power switch is still O (off).
- Route the actuator cable back to the control box. Keep it clear of the hoop's moving parts, away from sharp edges, and out of any walkway.
- Plug the actuator lead into the control box and push until it seats.
- Leave a small service loop of slack at each end. Raise and lower the hoop by hand through its range if you can, and watch that the cable never pulls tight or rubs.
On most systems the actuator is already fitted to the hoop at the factory and set to your overhang. If yours arrived separately, mount it per the hardware drawings that shipped with your hoop before continuing.
Connect the power cables
Battery switch off before you do this. Connect the discharge cables running from the battery base to the wireless control box:
- Red to red — positive (+).
- Black to black — negative (−).
- Push each connector together until it seats with a positive click or firm stop.
- Tuck the excess cable inside the control box housing for a clean, finished look.
Fit and lock the battery
- Line the battery up with the base and slide it down until it seats fully. It should feel square and solid, not tilted or catching.
- Insert a key and turn to lock. Tug the battery gently to confirm it's captive.
- Remove the key and store both keys somewhere you'll remember — a drawer indoors, not hanging on the wall next to the hoop.
Mount the remote holder
- Fit the A23 battery in the remote if it isn't already installed. Mind the + and − markings inside the compartment.
- Choose a spot for the holder that's convenient for whoever adjusts the hoop, but out of reach of young children.
- Mark, drill, set anchors if needed, and fasten the holder with the supplied screws.
- Seat the remote in the holder and make a habit of putting it back every time.
Power up and test
- Clear the area. Nobody under or near the hoop, nothing stored beneath it.
- Switch the battery to ON (—).
- Press the battery level button. You want at least 1 red + 1 green before testing.
- Stand well clear and press UP briefly. The actuator should begin to move. Press STOP.
- Press DOWN briefly, then STOP.
- Run one full cycle up and back down, watching the cables the whole way for tension, rubbing or snagging.
- Stop immediately at anything unexpected — grinding, hesitation, a cable pulling tight — switch the battery off and check the routing before trying again.
Getting a solid hold in drywall
Stud beats anchor
A screw in solid framing holds several times what a drywall anchor will. Find your studs first, and shift the layout an inch or two to catch one if you can.
Drill the right size
Too small and the anchor won't seat; too large and it spins in the hole. Use the bit size printed on the anchor packaging — not the screw diameter.
Snug, then stop
Drive until the part is tight to the wall, then stop. One extra squeeze on the trigger is what strips an anchor out of drywall.
Final check — tick every box before you call it done
- Battery base is plumb and doesn't move when pushed
- Discharge cables connected red → red, black → black
- Control box bracket is level and screwed home
- No cable pulls tight anywhere in the hoop's travel
- Control box is fully seated on its bracket
- Battery is locked; keys removed and stored indoors
- Actuator cable is plugged in with a service loop
- Remote responds and lives in its holder
Charging & Battery Care
How to charge
- Switch the battery OFF (O).
- Plug the charger into the battery's charge socket first, then into a wall outlet.
- Watch the charger LED: red = charging, green = fully charged (or charging has stopped).
- Unplug the charger once charging is complete. Don't leave it connected indefinitely.
Maximum charging current is 3 amps. Use only the charger supplied with your hoop.
Habits that make the battery last
- Recharge at 25% (1 red, no green) rather than running it flat.
- If the hoop sits unused for long stretches, top the battery up now and then instead of leaving it sitting empty.
- Charge indoors at room temperature, on a hard, non-flammable surface.
- In hard winters or damp garages, unlock the battery and store it indoors — that's exactly what the key and quick-release base are for.
Using Your Remote
▲ Up
Raises the hoop.
● Stop
Halts movement immediately, at any point.
▼ Down
Lowers the hoop.
- Watch the hoop while it moves. Only operate the system when you can see it and the area beneath it is clear.
- STOP is your friend. Press it the moment anything looks or sounds wrong.
- Keep the front of the control box unobstructed — a metal cart or cabinet parked against it can shorten the remote's range.
- Remote battery is an A23, stocked by most hardware, drug and big-box stores.
- Store the remote out of reach of young children when it's not in use.
Troubleshooting
Work down the table in order — most issues come back to the power switch, the charge level, or a connector that isn't fully seated.
| What you're seeing | Check this first | Then try |
|---|---|---|
| Nothing happens on UP or DOWN | Is the battery switch set to — (on)? | Check the charge level; charge if you only get 1 red. Confirm both discharge connectors are fully seated and the polarity is right. |
| Remote does nothing, but the system has power | The A23 battery in the remote. | Fit a fresh A23, mind the + / − markings, then stand closer with a clear line of sight to the control box. |
| Level lights won't come on | Press the level button firmly and squarely. | The pack may be fully discharged — put it on the charger and check again once the LED turns red. |
| Charger shows green straight away | The battery may already be full. | Confirm the plug is seated in the charge socket and the outlet is live. If the pack is clearly flat and the LED still won't go red, contact us. |
| Hoop starts moving, then stops on its own | Charge level — a weak pack sags under load. | Charge fully and retest. If it still stops, look for something binding in the hoop's travel. |
| Actuator is noisy, jerky or hesitates | Stop and switch the battery off. | Inspect the cable route and every moving joint for snags, pinch points or debris before running it again. |
| Control box sags or shifts on the wall | Is it fully interlocked with the wall bracket? | Power off, lift it clear, and re-anchor the bracket — into a stud if one is available. |
| Battery won't slide onto the base | Is the lock in the unlocked position? | Check the base is plumb and nothing is caught between the two halves. Never force it. |
Quick reference
Installing the whole hoop?
The full battery-powered wall-mount hoop installation guide covers wall backing, mounting height, the wall plate and all eight assembly steps.
Missing parts, or anything that doesn't look right? Reach out before you improvise. Have your order number, the battery level reading and a photo of the connections ready. Call 651-269-5950.